Category: Travel

  • The problem of light in the night

    Mirage_small_1
    The only picture from The Strip that caught my interest at all was of
    the volcano in front of the Mirage. I camped out at this hotel for 35 to 40 minutes, initially waiting for the "eruption" to start,
    and then to snap pictures during the fairly lengthy eruption.
    I think I
    took a full roll attempting to capture a waterfall picture with the
    interesting red lighting of the volcano. ItMirage_flame_small actually proved to be
    a pretty tough shot.

    Two reasons:

    1. The bursts of fire:
      These
      provided so much light that I could have taken a picture without the
      tripod. Anyway, with so much light, the smoothed waterfall effect
      disappeared.
    2. The Mirage hotel itself:
      I don’t know why I
      didn’t think of this before I started taking pictures, but I had a
      metering problem. I wanted to take a picture of a very dark object with
      dull red light. The problem was that right behind it was an object with
      better lighting, and a much brighter color of light (yellow). That
      second object was the hotel. So when I had pictures without flames, the
      hotel was overexposed, pulling attention away from the deep red light
      of the eruption. If I had just moved one or two hours clockwise, the
      Mirage would have been out of the frame, and my problem would have been
      solved.
  • The Strip

    Mandalay_bay_smallI uploaded the photos I took of the Las Vegas strip today. A bit disappointing. Lesson number one was about timing. I mean, I think pictures of Las Vegas have to be taken at night. Daylight and Las Vegas just don’t fit together in my mind. But I didn’t plan my time properly, so I didn’t take a single picture in that ideal hour immediately after sunset. To give you an example, compare this picture of Notre Dame de Paris and of Mandalay Bay Hotel.

    You see the difference in that midnight blue? The picture from Paris I took just a few moments after sunset–maybe 20 minutes max. It’s so funny that that deep blue is called midnight blue, when the sky at midnight is just black and flat.Notre_dame_midnight_blue_1
    Anyway, you get the idea. I got some interesting pictures, but not quite as artistic as they could’ve been.

    I also spent a lot of time on Fremont Street–that’s downtown Las Vegas and the historical center of the gambling industry in Las Vegas. You know, the cigarette smoking cowboy in neon? That’s on Fremont Street, where few high rollers go. The challenge with Fremont Street were the supports holding up the archway above the pedestrian area (not that anyone else will catch this, but this reminded me a great deal of the covering over the main shopping street in Damascus’ old walled town). While the supports were quite artistic, and almost natural looking, they really got in the way of my shots. It was easy enough to get a picture of one bright neon sign’ but to get two to provide a little bit of depth and perspective was damn hard.

    Glitter_gulch_small
    What made it even more annoying were the security guards. Why do people assume that a tripod makes a professional photographer? Photography is perhaps the most popular hobby in the United States. I’ve seen estimates that 80 million households in the United States own a 35mm camera. If the average household is comprised of three people, that means that 80% of households in the United States has a camera. I’ll grant you that only a small proportion of them own expensive tripods that are over eight-feet tall when fully extended. But I was approached twice by security guards on Fremont Street informing me that commercial photography was prohibited. One of them actually threatened to sue me. Talk about a wonderful welcome from Las Vegas.

    Judging by a tripod is actually pretty stupid. Judging by the size of the lenses on my camera–now that’s using your noggin. One of the best factors for determining the price and quality of a lens is the aperture width. The aperture, in case you didn’t know, is the opening inside the lens that lets light in to hit the film. The wider the aperture, the more light gets in, meaning you can use slower, higher-quality film with less light. But to have a wide aperture requires a wider lens, and that means more glass. Lots of expensive, photo-quality glass. but for a dumb security guard, paying attention to how big the lens on the camera body is will tell you either that the photographer is really rich, or is a pro. Needless to say, my long lense has an f-stop of 4.0 (5.6 at 300 mm). A pro would have an f-stop of 2.8 or below and a lens twice as large.

    Okay, I should explain the switch between aperture width and f-stop. The f-stop is the focal length divided by the diameter of the aperture. So an f-stop of 4.0 with a focal length of 70 mm means that the aperture width is 17.5 mm. So why use f-stop rather than the actual aperture width? It’s just a matter of normalization. Each ‘stop’ represents a
    halving of the light intensity from the one before, and hence a halving of the area of the pupil. in other words, it’s an effort to present a common measurement of light reaching the film (and the requisite shutter speed and aperture width) that is independent of the length of the lens (since the greater the magnification of the lens, the less light that reaches the film).

    Anyway, to get back to the size-of-the-lenses issue, a long lens requires more light (the object is farther away), so the aperture has to be wider (where f=focal-length/aperture-width, as the focal-length increases, so must the aperture width to reach the same f value). So pro is likely to have a really big fat long lens. I realize that none of this made any sense.

    The high-end hotels were actually much more accommodating. None of them bothered me with my camera at all.

    But enough of my rant about the warm and accommodating security guards on Fremont Street.

  • High Rollers Weekend

    The High Rollers scooter rally claims to have the largest scooter ride in the nation: a ride to the Hoover Dam that supposedly involves close to a thousand scooters. I have no idea if that was the case. That ride was all about going as fast as one possibly could on desert roads that stretched well over 100 miles without stop signs or stoplights. Considering that scooters have top speeds ranging between 45 mph and 90 mph, it should be no surprise that the ride quickly deteriorated into dozens of individual clumps of scooters with similar top speeds, rather than a coherent group of hundreds of scooters. Which is what it should have been, at least in my humble opinion.

    Actually, all of the rides were like this. Disorganized, long and at top speed. That’s not to say that I didn’t enjoy zipping along in the desert at speeds varying between 60 and 70 mph. It’s just that the pictures I had imagined taking–of a tight pack of a hundred scooters or more weaving around an S-shaped pair of hairpin turns running down the slope of a hill with the rocky crags of desert mountains in the background–just weren’t there. Yeah, I could get a shot of three scooters coming around those hairpin turns. But the group broke up so quickly, there just weren’t any options.

    Stella So instead of trying to capture the feeling of being in a pack of scooters, I spent most of my photographic efforts zooming in close to parked scooters. The details were wonderful: see for yourself. And it didn’t hurt that High Rollers seemed to have a high proportion of blinged-out scooters.

    Like every scooter rally I’ve ever been to, of course, I felt completely out of place. There’s this hipster/mod-ster/rocker style that just doesn’t match with my crunchy-yuppie hybrid thing. Of course, I barely even tried to fit in this time. Instead of trying to find interest in what ever it is some individual has done to their scooter recently, I just spent the entire trip with my camera. I was completely and utterly exhausted, but the nine rolls I took turned out relatively nicely. I even got some decent pictures of the Strip and of Red Rock Canyon.

  • Coming home

    On my way back to NYC.

    Is Ellie born yet? I’ll find out when I get home, I guess.

    I’m sitting next to this American couple, from somewhere in the South, I’ll wager. I can’t believe the inanity of their conversation. I am such a misanthrope.

  • The road from Monteverde

    The drive back from Monteverde was bone jarring. God, that road was awful. All I can say is that I was so unbelievable grateful when I finally hit
    paved road. I had started grating and grinding my teeth about twenty
    minutes before out of sheer frustration.

    [At the airport a day or two later, some kid pulled me aside to do a survey of visitors to Costa Rica. he asked me what I thought of the quality of Costa Rica’s roads. I laughed and reminded him I’d been to Monteverde. He circled "poor" as my answer.]

    It was a long day. I left the Ranario at 10am, and I wasn’t back at my hotel after returning the car until 4pm.

  • The cloud forest

    The cloud forest itself was less photographically interesting to me. Though I was fascinated by the fill-me-ferns and the… shoot… I think it was a kind of bamboo. No. Shoot, I’ve forgotten but it has orange and black fruit the size of cranberries, the orange being unripe, but used to attract birds, while the black were edible.

    The thing about fill-me-ferns was how they retained water. There were just these huge droplets of water held in place, not evaporating, not falling. I must have wasted two rolls. I even tried the flash, just to see if I got some extra light play.

    I went back in the afternoon yesterday, too, but didn’t see anything of interest. I had one hell of a hike, racing against the light with my damned tripod over my shoulder. Didn’t want to get lost in the pitch black. No road like the first night.

    Today, I went on a canopy tour with zip lines. It was a good deal of fun. I went early, so the group was small, just four others–newlyweds from Manhattan and a mom with her teenage son. They were pleasant. I mainly kept to myself, but the disingenuousness of the new wife was cute, the son was pleased with himself, and since his mom was being dragged along against her wishes, he didn’t seem embarrased, even when they took the last zip line together. It was sweet, actually.

    I stuck around for the canopy walk, which was a little disappointing. I got, I hope, some decent shots of a dung beetle with little yellow antennae, three-pronged like a pitch-fork.

    Just as I reached the last and longest suspension bridge of the walk, I heard the rumble of a howler, just ahead. I started to move cautiously across the bridge, eyes peeled at the canopy below and beside me. Nothing. Then I heard that low-throated rumble again, even closer ahead of me. I kept moving, prowling the trees with my binoculars. Nothing. And I wasn’t close enough to the source to traingulate. So I waited, staring into the canopy, probing, wishing. This was my only shot at getting a photo of a howler. I waited at the far end of the bridge so I could triangulate. I waited. And waited. Over an hour. In the sun. At noon. Without sunscreen. I got a burn, surprise, surprise. And never heard the howler again, let alone spot the critter. What a waste.

  • A walk in blackness

    I haven’t had a walk home like that in, oh, six, seven years. Not since the West Bank that night I had too much to drink at Nigel’s.

    It was so black tonight, like nothing I’ve ever experienced. I hated the light, and loved it at the same time. All I had to navigate with was the reflective black patches of puddles against the pitch black of the road. But there were bits of light to destroy my night vision–a house here, a car there–and make the whole road just two different types of black: pitch black and black hole.

    I ran after a car at one point just so I could follow the curve of the road.

    Two glasses of wine with dinner didn’t really help.

    It was sort of like the night at Nigel’s. Too much Scotch, I refused to pay the 20 shekel (40 shekel?) cab fare and decided to walk from Ramallah to Birzeit village. Of course, that turned out to be almost a two hour walk. Not like the fifteen minutes from the Tramonti to La Colina Lodge.

  • The road to Monteverde

    The rain this afternoon was incredible. I imagine this was similar to El Nino in 96-97 before I moved to SF. It must have been an inch an hour, I don’t know exactly. It was torrential.

    I was trying to send an email to Azeema when I panicked about the rain and the light. The roads are fantastically abysmal. Not quite as bad as King’s Range back in 2000, I think it was. But the rocks in the road are unbelievable here.

    John, the proprietor of La Colina Lodge told me they had just graded the road to Monteverde a few weeks ago. It was quite good, those stretches. But it was all compacted dirt, I can only imagine how one or two seasons of rain, it will have the same two foot deep rain gullies as that road in the King’s Range.

    So in short, the dirve up wasn’t too bad. The first half was rough and rocky, and the further I went it got even worse. Until the grading.

  • Dead battery

    I’m driving a new car here–a mini-SUV basically. I left the headlights on for, I don’t know, three hours, maybe four, and the battery was completely dead. I mean nothing. The hotel manager–a fellow gringo–suggested we push the damn car down the hill and start it while in motion. Didn’t work. I pulled it safely to the side of the road, but then thought I could back it up to a little parking area about fifty feet down from where it stopped. I ended up jamming it against the side of the road so that it blocked half the lane. Oops.

    The car rental company sent a guy out with a second vehicle. We jumped the original, and he had to drive it back. Poor bloke. Still, great service from Thrifty.

  • A critterless day

    34461046m
    Had a frustrating Manuel Antonio experience. I spent four hours hiking and only saw an agouti. For maybe six seconds. Most interesting thing all morning were the spreading roots of a tree.

    It was so amazing, the place was totally dead–as compared to yesterday when I was bumping into critters every few minutes. I did find the same pair (I think) of capuchin’s near Playa Gemala later in the morning, as well as a huge tribe of squirrel monkeys on the Punta Catedral trail just before I left the park. But damn what a frustrating day.

    Still, it’s magical to see those monkeys so close to you, jumping from branch to branch, scrunching up those all-too-human faces.