Author: Michael

  • The fish tank off Chinese Hat

    26-JAN-11: Sombrero Chino

    The Flamingo chugged along during lunch and siesta until we reached an island called Sombrero Chino mid-afternoon. It really did look like a broad-based conical Chinese Hat. Not sure why I didn’t take a picture of it.

    2011-01-26 katieOur underwater shots the prior times snorkeling had been green and dull. I thought maybe turning the flash on would be a good idea to brighten things up, and Katie figured out how to set it to “always on.” This wasn’t a brilliant idea, as you can see from the photo I took of her, below (the flash bounces light off of all the crap in the water).

    Still, photography was easier at Chinese Hat: Malina said the water conditions were so clear that it would almost be like swimming in a fish tank. She was right. It was brilliant.

    2011-01-26 iguanaThe first bit of excitement was a marine iguana feeding on algae in a tiny little inlet. With Katie and a fellow passenger, Jeff, in the inlet, I didn’t have much room to maneuver. I was so close to the iguana, the small waves were enough to move the iguana’s head in and out of the shot. I couldn’t zoom out any further, and I couldn’t move any further back with the other two people there. I ended up without any decent shots in the minute before the iguana went back on land. The shot below was the best I could manage.

    2011-01-26 rayThe next bit of excitement turned out to be a feeding frenzy caused by lobster heads dropped off a fishing boat. In addition to huge clumps of fish, we saw a huge ray. But the water was deep enough, I couldn’t swim down to get a shot of the ray from the front.

    Having the flash on all the time drained the battery fast, so we missed some penguins at the end of the swim. But it was a great day snorkeling.

    2011-01-26-fish

  • Endless blue-footed boobies

    25-JAN-11: Isla Isabela

    After snorkeling, we had a panga (Galapaguena for "Zodiac" boat) ride along the cliff-coast of Isla Isabela to see penguins and flightless cormorants and blue-footed boobies.

    I shot well over 800 today, but we saw so many blue-footed boobies on this ride, even I got tired and stopped shooting. Malina, our guide on the panga ride, told us that this wasn't normal. Most of the year, you would be happy to see thirty or forty blue-footed boobies in a day. We must have seen a thousand in just an hour on that panga.

    Below is my favorite shot… at least, considering I only took a cursory swing through the hundreds of frames I shot. I'm sure there may be another one buried in there.

    Blue_footed_boobies

    I haven't really gone through the penguin shots in any level of detail either. There were so many. But this one just jumped out. Look at that tongue.

    GPS_00037

  • Swimming with a Sea Lion

    25-JAN-11: Isla Isabela

    In the afternoon, we snorkeled in a bay on Isla Fernandina. The conditions and visibility were atrocious. I kept my head down under the water mainly to avoid looking at the scum floating on the surface. Oddly enough, I wasn’t bothered by my hair going through the muck, but watching Katie swim through it…

    Anyway, it was hard to see more than a few feet: we had to stay right next to the rocks, ahem, to the rock cliff to see anything. There weren’t many fish. A couple of stars. Not much to see at all, actually.

    2011-01-25 sealUntil I saw a sea lion dart directly underneath me. And then back in front of me. And around me. It was magic. I was checking out the sea lion, and it was checking out me. But the moment didn’t last long: there were other humans for the sea lion to investigate, and it disappeared in the green muck.

    A couple minutes later, I heard Katie shouting for me to get over to her. There was a Galapagos penguin swimming with us. By the time I swam over, it was out of the water and on a little ledge along the cliff. It and a friend were just hanging out, and Katie wanted me to take a picture of her near them. On impulse, the day before we left, we decided to purchase an underwater Canon point-and-shoot. I had trouble figuring out how to use it: button-to-shutter response just wasn’t as instant as with my 1d, and that meant I thought the shot was done when the shutter was still open. Yeah, it’s not like the shutter is open for very long, but if you move the camera when taking a shot, it’s going to be blurry. Add in the movement of the waves… I took three of Katie with the penguins, and only one wasn’t a modern painting of gray streaks. The one that did come out… metered badly. Blown out a bit.

    2011-01-25 katieThat was it for the excitement, though. Someone called out they saw a sea turtle, but with visibility so low, you had to be right on top of it to see anything.

    I had a bit of a scare before the penguins, though: my right calf muscle suddenly cramped up into a tight, baseball-sized knot of pain. The rest of the time, I was swimming either with one leg, or just by moving my feet, rather than my legs. Thankfully, the pain in my right toe mostly subsided with all the salt water: all I got from the flipper rubbing against it was a dull ache. Cut right big toe, abrased left ankle, sore right calf muscle. What else could happen?

  • Don’t step on the iguanas

    25-JAN-11: Isla Fernandina

    Another long night of dozing, not sleeping as the Flamingo crawled about 150 miles west to Isla Fernandina; from the northeastern most island, to the far northwest of the archipelago.

    2011-01-25 katie-iguanaWithin five feet of our landing point, there were six or seven iguanas sitting there amidst a tiny clearing in the mangrove trees. All the cameras came out, while Karina, our guide, attempted to tell us that the most important thing on this island was to not step on the iguanas, but that if you do, don’t freak out if they spit out you: it’s just salt water.

    Right, how could I step on an iguana? Yeah, they have camouflage, but… there can’t be that many.

    When we got out from the little clump of mangrove trees to the rocky coast, it was iguanas as far as the eye could see. Stepping on one? The challenge in some places was finding a place to step that didn’t already have an iguana resting there. There must have been a thousand little marine iguanas sitting motionless on the pahoehoe lava flows.

    I tried to take a landscape with the iguanas in the foreground, but it didn’t turn out well: black iguanas on black rock, white foam from waves, pale blue sky and white clouds… Either the mid- and back-ground was blown out, or the foreground was so dark you could barely distinguish the iguanas from the rock. I tried everything I could think of. A circular polarizer. A graduated neutral density filter. I probably needed a much stronger neutral density filter to fix that contrasty mess, though.

    2011-01-25 iguanasI also was struggling with my “tripod.” I didn’t bring my usual tripod, because it can be a hassle to handle, and it adds a ton of weight to my backpack. Also, with the subject matter of the Galapagos, I didn’t think I’d be taking many landscapes or sunset shots that’d require a tripod. A monopod should be enough to steady my hand for wildlife shots, and one of those twisty little “wrap-it-around-a-tree-limb” tripods would serve if I had any landscape opportunities (you want your camera close to the ground for those shots anyway. Anyway, the little thing was awkward to set up, and so low to the ground I could barely see through the viewfinder. All of my shots ended up a couple degrees askew from the horizon line.

    Meh. The shot above… I brightened up the shadows as much as I could, cropped out half the shot to make it a vertical landscape, and did a bunch of color adjustment to bring out the blue in the waves and the lighter brown on the backs of the iguanas. Still not a great shot. As I look at it, I think I would’ve done better to get way more iguanas in the foreground.

    The saving grace of the photographic day were the flightless cormorants. Further on in the walk, we came upon a group positioned such that the morning sun was behind my back, lighting up the cormorants beautifully. Then one popped out of the water, stood off by itself, and spread its stubby little wings out to dry. And every once in a while, it turned its head to catch the warmth of the morning sun, lighting the shot perfectly.

    2011-01-25 cormorant

    Panchito, the bartender gave me a couple band-aids the day before for my big toe. I went through two that morning, but with the strap of my sandal rubbing against the wound… by the end of the walk, I was limping along, resting my weight on my monopod like it was a cane, and wearing the sandal like a reverse flip-flop (the strap along the ankle the only one in use).

    I had another battery mishap: the shoulder strap on my camera suddenly came loose, and the camera landed on the battery casing. The impact was hard enough that the casing cracked and bent outward. Something tells me the weather seals were compromised. I hope it doesn’t rain when I’m out shooting.

  • Stupid Birds

    2011-01-24 boobies and people

    24-JAN-11: Isla Genovesa

    Seriously. Just. Plain. Stupid.

    This was my first reaction to the Nazca Boobies we encountered on Isla Genovesa. They were just standing there, on the ground, waddling like penguins and not moving when we got close. What bird doesn’t know to fly away when a human gets close, even if it’s just to hop into a tree or onto a rock just out of reach?2011-01-24 redfooted boobieWe saw a ton of birds today. Nazca Boobies. Red-footed Boobies. Great Frigate Birds. Mockingbirds. Lava Gulls. Swallow-tail Gulls. And they had no fear. Not a one.

    2011-01-24 mating gullsWe saw a pair of Swallow-tail Gulls mating (right). We saw a ton of chicks, from ugly looking frigate bird chicks to these downy-white balls of cotton that would eventually mature into red-footed boobies.

    About halfway through the hike, my camera’s battery died. I couldn’t believe it. I had charged that thing the night of 22-JAN-11, and shot less than 200 frames on 23-JAN-11.  That battery used to last for 48 hours of intense shooting before it died. I guess after five years, I need a new battery. Katie lent me her camera for most of the rest of the walk.

    2011-01-24 baby boobieWhile taking a shot of one of the red-footed booby chicks, I lost my balance and scraped my left ankle badly enough that it was bright red with blood. That wasn’t enough to stop me trying to get that same shot again (the chick was probably seven feet above sea level, and this one steep rock put my head about eight feet above sea level) and I lost my balance a second time, this time cutting my big toe on my right foot pretty badly, enough for it to actually bleed and me to feel nauseous about ten minutes after. The cuts were surprisingly deep and razor straight; a reminder that the rocks are glass-sharp lava formations.

    I handed Katie back her camera after I felt nauseous. I wasn’t about to take any more shots.

    The cuts made it increasingly hard to walk with my sandals on, and the thought of participating in the next activity—snorkeling—with fresh cuts was not appealing. We went kayaking for an hour or so, which was a relaxing alternative, even if salt water kept dripping from my oar onto my wounds.

  • Absolutely nothing

    31-JAN-11: Isla Santa Cruz

    That’s basically all we’ve done for the past 24 hours. Hopped in the pool, walked around Puerto Ayora, had a couple meals. I’ve been entranced by the little band of ducks that live in the hotel pool. They’re tiny and cute.

    My back is getting better. At lunch yesterday, I couldn’t find a comfortable position to sit. It hurt constantly. Today, it only hurts when I stand up or sit down.

    We have WiFi at the hotel, so I’ve finally be able to catch up on Egypt.

    I don’t think we’re going to do much of anything this afternoon or tomorrow either. It’s nice being lazy after such an busy week on the Flamingo.

  • My Fourth of July

    Yeah, it’s a long time after the fact, but this was my Fourth of July, just a few blocks from my house.Fireworks_spaceneedle

  • Agitating

    So, the other reason I’ve been so busy has been carlessinseattle.

    I started the blog–and agitating for various transit issues–back in January, and I’m actually getting some freaky progress all of a sudden. Put aside the 100-200 daily hits I get when I post.

    First, I managed to get myself on the front page of the Seattle PI about scooter parking in Seattle.Seattle_pi_scooter_parking It’s the article at the bottom of the photo to the right. Click to enlarge and scroll down to the bottom.

    Then a few weeks ago, I was invited–along with about 30 other people–for a private tour of the 520 Bridge hosted by the Washington State Department of Transportation. I was invited because my blog (and I)… We, are mildly obsessed with the 520 Bridge. Anyway, I was there with the Speaker of the State House and the State House Transportation Chair.

    But what really, Really, REALLY excites me is a post today by reporter and professional transit agitator Erica C. Barnett on The Slog. The Stranger’s wildly popular blog doesn’t give a lot of press to local bloggers, so being described as "someone less glib than me" and having two parts of my entry quoted is quite the compliment.

    Oddly enough, big sis made it into the Slog post as well (unnamed, mind you). Mom, don’t go into the comments. Slog readers are going to rip me to shreds. It’s part of the way things work on the Slog. And please don’t comment.

  • The kitchen is done. Sorta.

    It’s been almost two months since I’ve posted on here. It’s been a busy time at home, work and on CarlessinSeattle.

    New_counters Home, it’s been about remodeling. I spent a couple months waiting patiently for Peter Anderson, my chosen contractor, to finish up a couple of existing jobs, and in the interim, I started hating the badly stained butcher-block counters, cheap stainless steel sink and tacky red tile in my kitchen.

    So I decided to get them all replaced. Well, I decided to get the sink and counters replaced, and mom, Katie and the realities of construction convinced me that the tile backslpash–even if it hadn’t been tacky–would have to come out.

    So, several thousand dollars later, I have dark green granite counters, a copper sink, oiled-bronze faucet and… a backsplash waiting for new tile. (photo right) I figured I’d hold onto the tiling project myself. Still need to decide.

    And, of course, I need to paint. The ceiling in the kitchen needs new paint, because of the new, Craftstman-style lighting fixture I put in. And the wall by the fridge–my first experiment with glaze painting techniques–doesn’t work. And the other wall still has the cold, light gray-blue in which the entire apartment was painted. And it’s worn and stained.

    But the hard work is done. Below are some before, after and during shots.

    Old_counters

    Main_counter_interim_2

    Old_sink_2

    New_sink_2

  • Day 4: Olympic NP Workshop

    Last day, and not even a full day shooting so people have time to travel.

    David left the decision for our last subject up to the group. It was an overcast day, so the Elwha River valley (where I went on Day 0, and the group went briefly on Day 1) was one choice. But David felt the clouds might just be a low-lying marine layer of fog, and that Hurricane Ridge just might be clear. Layla–a native of British Columbia–agreed. Peter wanted Elwha, and the entire class was with him. I had this feeling about Hurricane Ridge, though. A really, really strong feeling. And my ride, Peter, was adamant… in his friendly, easy-going way.

    I decided to take the risk of riding up the mountains on my own. I say risk, because Patrick had to change his… jets, or something… at 4,000 feet and then 8,000 feet on the Scooter Cannonball this past spring. I didn’t know if my little Vespa would just lose power at high altitude. Worst case scenario: I would have to turn around. Bad case scenario: I’d have to hike the last little bit. A worthwhile risk.

    OK, it wasn’t just the jets or whatever. The previous two times we went up Hurricane Ridge, it was hella cold. I was going to be a human popsicle by the time I reached the top, and that isn’t conducive to photography.

    Layla and David were right: it was just a marine layer. But there was a second marine layer a good thousand feet above Mt. Olympus, so the sky was fairly flat. I took a few pictures, including this panorama. It’s a technique Peter mentioned involving stitching together multiple pics. I have software that does this (poorly) but I’d never thought of actually trying it (like all pictures in my blog, just click to enlarge).
    Panorama

    But mainly, I was uninspired again.

    Until I spied two deer walking across the meadow. There was my foreground. Considering how docile deer in Olympic NP were the past two days, I knew I could get within ten feet of them, maybe closer, without upsetting them at all. The approach was painful. I had to walk slowly, not only to avoid spooking the deer, but to make sure that I didn’t step on any of the delicate little plants and flowers just starting to sprout.

    Deer_olympicsI took a ridiculous number of shots: with deep green firs on the mountainsides contrasting with wispy white clouds and a pale blue sky resting atop snow covered peaks, getting a balanced picture was next to impossible, so I needed to hedge my bets with lots of shots at lots of different f-stops. I even ditched the circular polarizer for a graduated neutral-density filter that darkened a third of the picture (the sky in this case) by about half-a-stop, balancing things a little bit better.

    Deer_olympics_herd Eventually, the pair of deer moved on, but as I was packing up my gear to head back down, I spied an entire herd. Not only that, but they were grazing on one side of a ravine and in front of a clump of pine trees. A much more interesting foreground than the flat, brown-green meadow the first pair were wandering through. I took a ludicrous number of shots. Oddly enough, though, the larger number of deer made the picture far less pleasing. There was too much going on. The best, I believe, is the one above, of the two deer, walking, crossing from snow to meadow. Any thoughts?

    I stopped, but this time, it wasn’t because the deer had walked away. Over the past two hours–from 8am to 10am–the temperature had risen so much that I was pouring sweat under the heavy jacket and sweater I was wearing to avoid becoming a human popsicle. I actually used the electrical hand-dryer in the ranger station’s bathroom to dry off my t-shirt.

    Creek_green_island On the way down, I thought I spotted Peter’s rental car by Heart of the Hills campground right near the camp entrance, so I pulled over. I followed the sound of water, and low-and-behold, there were Peter and Layla and another fellow whose name I had forgotten. Not only did this give me one more chance to say goodbye to Peter and Layla, but I got this shot.

    By then, I was done. I stopped by Dungeness National Wildlife Refugee on the way back, but it was stale and lacking in wildlife beyond birds (which are impossible to photograph without a 600mm lens).

    Instead of taking 101, I decided to take back roads as much as possible. It lengthened the ride and increased my exhaustion, but it was far more pleasurable. Roosevelt_elkAnd I spied a herd of Roosevelt Elk that, according to my Olympic NP map, are "much shier than those elk you may find further east; it is unlikely that you will see any while you are in the park." No joke. All I needed to do was stop my scooter 100 yards from them, and they clumped together and started to move away. I waited patiently, but the best I could manage was this–a distant shot with an ugly background.